Chasing Waterfalls & Hot Springs
Baja California Sur is famous for its sun-drenched beaches, surf breaks, and dramatic desert landscapes. But if you venture away from the coast and head deep into the mountains, you will discover that the desert hides some of the most magical, life-giving secrets you could ever imagine.
Recently, we decided to trade our familiar Pacific ocean views in Todos Santos for a full-day expedition devoted entirely to hiking, dirt roads, and water. To say we left feeling rejuvenated is a massive understatement. It was an epic, unplugged day of adventure that reminded us exactly why we chose to make this beautiful peninsula our home.
If you are looking to step outside your comfort zone, leave cell service behind, and experience the true "Baja Way," here is the ultimate guide to our unforgettable day trip from Todos Santos to the mountain oasis of Santiago.
The Journey: Embracing the Slow Rhythm of Highway 19 and Route 1
Living in Todos Santos means we are spoiled by a slower, more intentional pace of life. But a road trip across the peninsula still tests your ability to go with the flow. Our journey began early in the morning, leaving the Pacific coast behind and heading south on Highway 19.
After passing through Pescadero and skirting around the edge of Cabo, we merged onto Highway 1, heading north toward the small historic town of Santiago. The entire drive takes just about two hours (roughly 97 miles), but the real adventure begins when you hit the single-lane stretches of the Transpeninsular Highway.
As we cruised along, we found ourselves stuck behind multiple massive cargo trucks crawling up the hills. It instantly triggered vivid memories of our original 7-day road trip driving down the entire peninsula to get here.
A few years ago, the "old me" would have felt a wave of anxiety creeping in:
When can we pass safely?
Is someone speeding around the bend from the opposite direction?
Why won’t this truck just pull over onto the shoulder already?!
But living down here changes you. Travel changes you. This time? We just laughed and put on some good music. When you live in Baja, you quickly learn to surrender control and match the rhythm of the land. Slowing down, letting go of the rush, and rolling with the unexpected - that is just the Baja way.
Stop 1: Cañón de la Zorra (Fox Canyon)
Imagine driving through miles of arid, cactus-studded desert under a blazing sun, only to find a vibrant, lush canyon where a stunning natural spring waterfall cascades into a massive, deep swimming pool. It feels completely surreal, like a mirage brought to life.
The Hike: It is a moderately challenging half-mile trek from the parking area. You will descend into the canyon, which requires a bit of scrambling over large granite boulders and navigating steep, rocky terrain. Good footwear is a must!
The Reward: Coming over the final ridge left all of us entirely speechless. Dropping down to the edge of the pool, the water was crystal clear, absolutely freezing, and utterly inviting.
The Atmosphere: We spent a couple of hours swimming, jumping off the lower ledges, and sharing the space with local wildlife. We spotted water snakes gliding along the reeds, vibrant dragonflies, darting lizards, and only a handful of other travelers. The energy of this canyon felt purely magical and untouched.
The Detour: Getting Lost, Bull Traffic, and Hometown Connections
Energized and thoroughly chilled by the cold plunge, we packed back into the car in search of nearby natural hot springs. We knew they were in the area, so we took off down a maze of intersecting dirt roads in hopes that local signs would guide us.
With absolutely zero cell service, your GPS is useless out here. You have to navigate by intuition, landmarks, and old-school exploration.
Naturally, we got a little lost. But getting lost in Baja always leads to the best stories. Our minor detour included an authentic desert traffic jam—which, out here, means putting the car in park and waiting patiently for a herd of massive bulls to casually cross the dirt road.
Just when we started to wonder if we should turn back, a dusty VW wagon rolled up out of nowhere. As it got closer, we noticed something incredible: it had license plates from Washington State - our home state at the time!
We rolled down our windows to greet the driver, a delightfully eccentric, sun-baked older man. With a massive grin, he assured us we were heading the right way and were almost there. He laughed and told us he was just heading out for a bit to "toke on a spliff."
Goodness, you have to love the incredible, free-spirited folks you meet on the road—especially when they share your home-state roots. His casual reassurance was exactly the sign we needed to keep pushing forward into the desert.
Stop 2: The Steaming Pools of Rancho Santa Rita
Following our new friend's directions, we finally hit the entrance gate of Rancho Santa Rita. We happily paid the small local entrance fee—which goes directly to supporting the local ranching family that maintains the area—and began the short hike down to the sulfuric hot springs.
Nestled against a dramatic backdrop of rugged mountains, these thermal pools bubble up directly from geothermal vents in the earth. The contrast to Fox Canyon couldn't have been more perfect. We slipped into the warm, mineral-rich water, letting the heat soak deeply into our tired hiking muscles.
The absolute best part of the afternoon wasn't just the physical relaxation; it was the comradery. As we soaked, we struck up conversations with a few other travelers who had made the trek out. It turned out we were all kindred spirits. Every single person sitting in that pool was intentionally stepping outside of their comfort zones this year, seeking deeper, wilder adventures off the tourist track.
To end an epic day on a note of genuine human connection, along with a happy, thoroughly soaked body—it was a very good day indeed.
Reflecting from Our Todos Santos Home Base
Driving back across the peninsula toward the Pacific coast, watching the sky turn into a fiery Baja sunset over the ocean, we felt completely full. We started the day navigating one-lane highways and dusty desert tracks, and ended it with a renewed sense of connection to both nature and humanity.
Stepping out of your comfort zone doesn't always require a plane ticket to the other side of the world. Sometimes, it just requires a full tank of gas, a willingness to get a little lost, and the curiosity to see what is waiting for you at the end of a dirt road.
Now that we are settled into our home in Todos Santos, this day trip served as a beautiful reminder: we live in a place where the desert, the mountains, and the ocean constantly conspire to surprise us.
If you are planning your own trip to Baja California Sur, look past the beach resorts for just one day. Rent a 4WD vehicle, turn off your phone, and go find the hidden water waiting in the desert. It might just change your perspective, too.